INDIAN TRADITIONAL TEXTILE
INDIAN TRADITIONAL TEXTILE
INDIAN TRADITIONAL TEXTILE
India has been famous for its handicrafts and textiles for a long time. The first evidence of purple was found at Mohenjo-daro which proves that cotton was harvested in India and grew up to 3000 BC.
Chanakya mentions that the textile industry was very important in internal and external trade.Although he emphasized the importance of “economics” for weaving cotton and silk woolen garments.
The materials used in the spinning process were wool (cotton), cotton (karpasa), hemp (tul) and flax (kusum). At that time weaving was mainly done by women.And their pay depends on the theme of the yarn.
During 100 AD, Indian textiles became popular among the Persians due to their bright colors.Even Indian muslin was very popular in Rome as “Nebula”, “Ganjetika” and “Venti”.
Silk was also a product exported to Rome but raw materials were imported from China. Ajanta paintings of this period included embroidery, baddhana (tie and dye) and patolu (ikat weaving), for example weaving cloth.
1200 to 1 AD00 AD Meanwhile, northwestern India came under the influence of the Turksand Afghans. Even during the 1st century, Gujarat and Bengal trade went to the Muslim traders.
In the 16th century, the Portuguese were reluctant to establish economic relations with the Mughals and various states in South Asia.
The British also approached King Akbar as the Mughals provided economic prosperity, political stability and administrative efficiency between 1 Even00 and 10000.
They develop a high standard of handicraft craftsmanship. The Jahangir period was very famous during the Mughal period. There was a workshop for embroiderers who were observation masters.
Workshops for goldsmiths, painters, tailors, shoemakers, silk weavers, etc.
VARIETY OF INDIAN TRADITIONAL TEXTILE
Pigment dyed textiles fabrics:
We found the first pigment dyed cloth in the late 14th century. That cloth was known as “Pat”, and it was dyed in Gujarat and Rajasthan. In the art form of micro-painting, pigment-painted paintings were found in the early fifteenth century during the Mughal period.
Another evidence of a pigmented painting is the “Pichchavasi”, which was hung behind an image of Krishna in the temple. Another artwork was related to pigment; It was associated with the “Patachitra” of Orissa and mainly the Jagannath Temple. Puri.
Dye painted textiles:
Among all other types of traditional clothing, dyed painted fabrics have also been known as a complex technology in the subcontinent for more than 2500 years. Indian furnishing textiles and other home decors such as embroidery quilts were popular among European consumers but Indian cotton, which was painted in the late seventeenth century, had established its value in the European market. The main property of mathematician fabric that is in high demand is the bright color after repeated washing. – Strength and durability.
At the end of the seventeenth century, this fabric became the era in Europe. The process of painting with natural dyes requires mordants. Dye cotton clothes. In the eighteenth century, soaked dyers in South India washed colorful bamboo sticks (pens) before washing clothes in a myrobalan solution. This process was known as chronology. In this calligraphy process, an imaginary outline was created to be cut on an iron paper with a bamboo stick. Before dyeing the indigo for preparation, they dissolved the myblan (Harde) and other mordants into the dung from the fabric and saved the details by using wax on other colors of the fabric.
Resist dyed clothes
To resist the dyeing technique, the yarn or fabric was tied with mud, gum, wax or thread and then inserted into the dye bath, creating a pattern in place of the dye on the coated area. Alltechniquesthesese three are still famous
The yarn wearer is first designed according to the design and then dyed and the pattern is followed by the process of weaving the fabric into the fabric. During the seventeenth century, it was India’s most important export to Southeast Asia. Patola has always been associated with India’s prestige. It was exported to the Philippines, Malaysia and Borneo, Thailand and Indonesia. In Java, they used Pato for wedding ceremonies. Patola was used in the temple as a sacrifice for execution.
Another resistance to dying fabrics is the bonding pattern. Bandhani was found during the sixth century, on his murals of Ajanta. Even in the thirteenth century we find some evidence of bondage based on the painted roofs of three stored temples at Alachi. Gujarat’s bright color bonding technique is popular. Jamnagar is the main coloring and marketing center and Kutch Hemonopoly is in bandi clothing. In Gujarat, traditional art has developed equally among both Hindu and Muslim Khatri families. Women design and men paint colorful.
Fabrics for construction, silk, georgette, gauze silk, satin, crapsilk etc. For the method of dyeing after washing and washing, the garments have to be folded in 2 or 3 layers and printed with ocher. Women follow the lines of marking and tie at even the smallest distances as a design. A light color like yellow is painted first. Bandhi garments are mainly used in sarees, dresses, shawls and pegs. The market is important because of the bonds made by the muslin and Khatri artisans, its finely woven flowers and geometric designs.
Ikat of Orissa
The Orissa Ikat production process is completely different from Patola Ikat. Orissa Ikat designs are more dependent knitting. The main raw material is eudis cotton.
Ikat of Andhra Pradesh
Ikat in Andhra Pradesh is known as “Teliumal”. The yarn has to be wet and dipped in oil to form a color from the word “oil”. And so it gets the Theoli texture. It is made up of a diverse double unit technique.
There is some evidence to suggest that the block printing technique dates back to 1500 BC. We have no physical existence since this time. We found evidence near Egypt, which printed Indian fabric. Fustat fabrics were of excellent quality and were very famous for trading between India and Egypt. There are two categories. Block printed fabric with resist method, can be with wax armud and dyed in one color. 2) Block printed fabric with mordants – Due to sudden political and economic changes the Mughal Empire established colonial rule. This ledsto reduction of many textile techniques such as dyeing, printing and cotton weaving. In the twentieth century, many traditions were in a state of disrepair. Some like Sanganeremedective and contribute to the domestic and international market. Traditionally colored substances were obtained in the form of thick residues which stopped the “rogan”. Rogan was obtained from small kumkum and castor oil soaked in cold water. Then there was the block printed on the Rogan cloth. The transformation of this process was known as “khadi”.
Makhilipattanam was very famous for its dyed garments like the printed polavaram of Machhilipatnam made for the Iranian markets in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The popularity of the Islamic style of the bizarre century was in Matilipatna. The shape of his art has changed. Natural azaleas have been replaced by alizarin and indigoous bentireligivan dyes. Even the bamboo or iron kalam used for painting for painting details against wrath did not stop. But the change in this traditional method had an adverse effect on the quality of printing.
Sanganer is a place near Jaipur, which has been very famous for the last two and a half centuries. From the time of the black cloth. Sangener became famous for its delicate floral prints such as ‘Irish’, ‘Lily’, ‘Rose’, ‘Kanshan’ etc. Floor with low wooden planks, 24 inches long, 18 inches wide, back to top. Cottonfabric used printings about 36 inches wide. Nowadays, tables of 20 inches in length and 45 inches in width are being used
Bangaru is a place which is at a distance of thirty kilometers from Sanganer. Bagru prints are associated with local folkmilio, and color range and designwerenspred by traditional artists and custom.
Bagh is a village in Madhya Pradesh. Bag prints are known for their tone-tone-tone patterns. Red, blue black background with a pale shade of the same color design. The garden printing process is started with bleaching and softening process. After washing the cloth, it was dipped in castor oil, goat dung and alkali. Again it has to be washed properly and treated with Myrobalan. Now it is profiling printing which is done by mordants like alum, tamarind flour and natural gum. The second step is done for printing, where a black pattern is required. Black coloris made from iron, jaggery and natural gum, which is separated for 20 days, then mixed with tamarind flour. Now the fabric is treated in a hot dye bath with alyrin.
The first evidence of a textile industry woven from Mohenjo-daro in the Indus Valley is from about 1 B.50 B.C.
Varanasi cotton weaving was very famous and her better skill was silk weaving. It has been different from the idea of Gujarat weavers since the middle of the eighteenth century. For some famous silk quality furniture vaskimkhabs, heavy satin or twill are used. Light weights of satin, twill and plain woven brocade were also produced in Varanasi.
Silver was woven in the Munde factory in the seventeenth century. The high quality silver fabrics assisted by this factory are made in the Mughal court. Since the eighteenth century, the center has produced very fine, plain and gold-edged cotton muslin.
Kancheepuram has been known as the political and religious center of South India since ancient times. Kancheepuram has been famous for its textile weaving skills since ancient and medieval times. The traditional Kanchipuramshari was worn by women for religious purposes in Tamil Nadu. Venkatagiri Venkatagiri is a city in Andhra Pradesh which is very famous for its cotton-weaving center. Vankatagiri has been known for making dhotis and turbans since the nineteenth century.